For the cocking block and valve body, I usually do an engine turned or jewelled finish, which can look very smart in combination with the existing black finish on the gun, and particularly with other stainless steel parts. I sometimes also do this to the frame end cap and other areas.
In addition to the jewelling shown in some of my photos, I can also do micro jewelling. This is similar in appearance, but much more eye-catching and iridescent. This is generally more suited to smaller areas, and is shown on the edge of the valve body collar, valve face and cocking knob.
Jewelling in general, can be applied to any metal component or surface on request.
It isn't of course to everyone's taste, so alternatives like stippling or frosting are available, and the valve body can be re-finished and re-blacked if it gets surface damaged on removal (*see note).
Stealth air valve body as
Same air valve body after
Same air valve body after
I can also apply a metallic gold enamelling to areas of metalwork. I generally apply this as an inlay in grooves machined into components like the valve body and frame end cap, but there are other possibilities for its application.
I can get aluminium components professionally black anodised, and can have steelwork like barrels professionally blued. (Sometimes called blacking).
For frame end caps as shown above, I can add grooving, knurling or other decorative finishes on request. Various styles are shown.
If you require the valve stem "O"ring mod., please send the valve body ONLY.
I can undertake the removal of this for you, but it adds considerably to the job time and postage costs.
This component simply screws into the bottle, on a normal right hand thread, and can be quite easy to remove, as just an "O"ring forms the seal between the valve body and the bottle. At other times though, this can be an exceptionally stubborn and difficult part to remove, as it is sometimes bonded into the bottle neck with a thread lock or jointing compound.
For the latter bonded type, (you want to see the state some people send me them in), the following should help...
First of all, ensure the bottle is empty!
In the case of difficulty on removal, heat can be the answer. Give the bottle neck a quick burst with a blowlamp at full heat, followed by holding the valve body in a vice or mole grip with protected jaws. (An old leather belt is ideal for protecting the metal from mechanical surface damage).
The idea behind this is to soften the thread sealing compound and expand the bottle neck, WITHOUT burning the painted finish on the bottle or overly heating the valve body, (remember there are plastic components inside). Hence the blowlamp at full heat for only a short time, (up to about 10 secs.).
A better way, if you can find the necessary, is to first take out the burst disc plug. A flat bladed screwdriver is required for this. Try to get one that fully fills the slot to minimise damage. Padding on the screwdriver blade e.g. with cut strips of wet and dry paper to fatten up the blade can be used.
Again this can be quite stubborn to remove, so some heat can be tried if you are having difficulty.
Once out, replace the plug with a 3/8th x 24tpi UNF bolt. This is the correct thread-form for the burst disc hole and will not damage the threads.
This bolt can then be fully located in the threaded hole, and used as leverage after the heating step as above.
Some of the newer bottles also have a plain hole in the valve body opposite the burst disc plug. Try to find a metal rod the correct diameter, or even the shank end of a twist drill (5/16" or 8mm) and use this, preferably in addition to the UNF bolt at the other side.
If you have access to a Carpenters type vice, this can be used to firmly hold the bottle, e.g. after wrapping in a towel, while you use leverage on the valve body with one or two rods.
If you're only using one rod, sometimes a smart tap with a small hammer after the pre- heating step with a blow torch, will do the trick.